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Kesava Temple, Somanathapur
(35 km from Mysore)
Photograph by H. Satish, A.R.P.S, M.F.I.A.P.
The small, sleepy village of Somanathapur shelters a remarkable temple, built around 1268 AD and dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The Kesava temple is considered to be the most well-preserved of all the temples built by the Hoysalas, who ruled over parts of Karnataka between 1000 and 1346 AD. The Hoysalas were prolific temple builders and their temples at Belur, Halebid and Somanathapur stand testimony to their reputation…and their art.
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Intricately carved friezes, Kesava Temple |
Among the many Hoysala temples, the three greatest are the Hoysalesvara temple at Halebid, the Chennakesava temple at Belur and the Kesava temple at Somanathapur. Kuvempu's poignant poem "Baagilolu kai mugidu olage baa yatrikane" was inspired by his visit to the Kesava temple.
The Kesava temple is the only major Hoysala temple complete with towers or gopurams. It stands in the middle of a walled compound, surrounded by an open verandah with 64 cells. The temple rests on a star-shaped platform with 24 edges. (This is a distinctive Hoysala feature and serves three purposes: it offers greater wall space for sculptural display, allows pilgrims to view the sculptures easily and permits the performance of pradakshina around the sanctum.) The temple has three profusely carved pinnacles with a common Navaranga. Carved idols of Kesava, Janardhana and Venugopala once graced the three sanctums; only two are still to be found in original form.
Elaborate ornamentation was the hallmark of Hoysala architecture. The breathtaking sculptural detail at the Kesava temple can be seen everywhere: on intricately carved friezes that show caparisoned elephants, battle scenes, and stylised animals, birds and flowers; panels with carvings of gods, goddesses and nymphs; ornate ceilings with scenes from the epics and puranas; and elaborately detailed pillars and doors. The legendary sculptors who worked on the temple were allowed the rare and unusual privilege of signing their work.
It is believed that the Kesava temple was built by Somanath, a celebrated commander in the Hoysala army, who was granted royal permission and funds to construct the temple to showcase Hoysala craftsmanship.
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