| SNIPPETS: City of Palaces |
Mysore has been associated with royalty (the Wodeyar dynasty and Hyder Ali / Tippu Sultan) for centuries. Under the Wodeyars, considered one of the most enlightened and benevolent of Indian maharajas, Mysore became a showcase of princely splendour, as new palaces were created and old ones reconstructed.
Amba Vilas Palace
Completed in 1911-12, this landmark building is a blend of Hindu, Mughal and European styles of architecture. Home of the royal family, centre of the Dasara celebrations and a must on every tourist itinerary, the Amba Vilas Palace is popularly known as the Mysore Palace. It took 15 years to complete and cost about Rs 41.50 lakhs.
The Palace stands on the foundations of an older palace dating back to 1799, much of which was destroyed in a fire in 1897. An English architect, Henry Irwin, designed the new palace: a three storey, grey granite main building with about 600 rooms, above which rises a tower capped by a gilded dome. Also in profusion are arching canopies inspired by Rajput palaces, stained glass ceilings executed by a foundry in Scotland, parapets, pavilions, galleries, open courtyards, paintings, crystal and more. A cluster of temples, dedicated to different deities, is located within the palace compound.
Lalitha Mahal Palace:
Beautifully situated on a ridge at the base of Chamundi Hill, the elegant two-storey Lalitha Mahal Palace was commissioned by Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV in 1921. Designed in the Renaissance style by E.W. Fritchley, a Mumbai-based architect, the Palace was completed in 1931 at a cost of Rs 13 lakhs.
Initially created for the exclusive use of the Viceroy of India, it later served as a guesthouse for European guests and important dignitaries. Its architecture is a combination of Tudor mansion, gracious manor home and Italian palazzo (it has been described as “a transposition of St Paul’s Cathedral to South India”). Special features of the Palace include the Viceroy room, banquet hall and a sweeping venetian marble staircase. Local craftsmanship can be seen in decorative wall- and ceiling-motifs woodwork. The Palace has now been converted into a 5-star hotel.
Jaganmohana Palace:
One of the oldest buildings in Mysore, the Jaganmohana Palace was built in 1861 by Mammudi Krishnaraja Wodeyar as his garden retreat. Its architecture is predominantly Hindu, with an abundance of balconies, stained glass windows, gables, arches and decorative pilasters.
The royal family lived here between the time their old Palace was gutted and the new one built. The marriage pavilion, added in 1900, was intended as a temporary structure for the wedding of Prince Krishnaraja Wodeyar to Princess Pratap Kuvarba. It served also as a venue for formal events till the Durbar Hall of the new palace was functioning. Some of the events that took place here were the installation of the Maharaja, his birthday celebrations, important meetings like the Representative Assembly sessions after 1923, early convocations of the Mysore University and theatre and cultural activities exclusively for the royal family. Conferences and cultural programmes are held in the Jaganmohana palace even today.
The Jaganmohana Palace also houses the Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery, with its collection of paintings by masters ranging from Rembrandt to Ravi Varma.
Rajendra Vilas Palace
Located on Chamundi Hill, the Rajendra Vilas Palace was built by Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV. Indo-saracenic in style, the palace has a semi-circular veranda on the north, which offers a panoramic view of the city. It was reconstructed from an older building dating back to 1822 and completed in 1938. Highlights of its architecture include cusped arches on slender columns, domes and shades. Particularly noteworthy is its ribbed central dome, containing a lantern. The Rajendra Vilas Palace was later converted to a hotel. Howevere, it is now in a state of dis-use.
Lokranjan Mahal
Also known as the summer palace, the Lokranjan Mahal was built in the 1880s to function as a royal school and later used as a guest house for distinguished visitors. Set in a semi-formal garden, the Lokranjan Palace features a large driveway with an intricately carved gate; a spacious portico and a large veranda supported on cusped arches.
Historical records indicate that in June 1982, when Krishnaraja Wodeyar was eight years old, it was decided to set up a small class for the young prince. Other classmates were carefully selected and the Governor Sir S.M. Frazer, ICS, became special tutor to the prince. The prince actually shifted here after his installation and lived here with his tutors and classmates for some time.
The Wodeyars built palaces outside Mysore too: the Fernhill Palace at Ooty and Bangalore Palace are two famous examples. And, as most tourists will tell you, many of Mysore’s old buildings—civic offices, educational institutions and private residences—look as if they were once royal retreats!
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